All Chef Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.
Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.
An Shocking Recognition
The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.
“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
A Charm of Modesty
The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.
The Star Creation: Tantuni
In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Rising Above the Giants
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.
A Creed of Warmth
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the Community
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.