The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds form.

It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.

"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the World

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Across the City

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Deborah Woods
Deborah Woods

Blockchain enthusiast and finance writer with over a decade of experience in crypto investments and mobile tech.